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Malcolm Drane

Archangel • Joined: 03 December 2008

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To me the essence of a good wine is not just the taste, but the memories and happy images that can be conjured from the sight smell and taste of the wine, whether it be newly visited or an old friend, and this an good old friend and boy does this deliver First this is not an over heavy wine, lighter in body than previous vintages to me, no bad thing as this means It can be drunk more easier without having to resort to food to accompany. But more on that later. The glorious shiny deep red seductive body with a hint of a lighter rim just entices one to quickly take a sip, but just wait a moment and take in the warming spice and black cherry notes that waft from the glass. It does benefit from being open for a good few hours and warming to 18c to really get the best from this delight. Now is the time start the taste adventure, first sip is the sweetest as a certain songwriter once wrote and I believe that to be true, all your thoughts and images are created in those first few seconds after the wine hits the tongue and then the warmth and summer fruits hit the spot leading to a lightly spiced concoction accompanied by hints of port liqueur chocolates. And the finish is delightfully long and satisfying. I went to a food and drink festival recently and to my delight I found a supplier of Portuguese cheese in attendance , now Portuguese cheeses are like Portuguese wines still a well kept secret from the rest of the world, I love them especially the soft smelly ones, and here they were waiting for me to greedily devour. Some I knew, but a few new ones from very small producers. If you have not tried these cheese I urge you to seek them out Here was a golden opportunity to pair with the Negreiros 2010, after respectfully waiting for the wine and cheese to warm and breath the adventure began. Paired with some good examples of Serra Da Estrela and Azeito and Seia cheeses amongst others. I was transported back to the higher reaches of the Douro as the wines port and chocolate notes brought to the fore another glimpse into the versatility of the wine. It just loves cheese and chocolate, have you tried this combination, if not why not. So why the five hearts. It’s just made for me. Am I biased, yes, does it deserve this accolade, yes for me. But don’t just take my word for it, Just give it a go you won’t be disappointed, try it Naked ,try it with heavy meat dishes, try it with cheese, just enjoy. I certainly did.

J H Toso Angels Reserve Malbec 2018

£15.99

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Domaine O'Vineyards Mojoe 2017

£13.99

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Nu by Negreiros 2013

£15.99

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This to me this wine epitomise what is so special about the upper Douro, the smell and taste of the Nu brings sweet memories of the rugged steeply sloping vineyards leading down to the sparkling waters of the Douro river, The call of the birds as dusk falls over the waters and fish leap for their supper creating gentle splashes that cast rings and glistens as the last light fades softly on the water. the schist that once glistened in the sunlight now darkens and casts dark brooding shadows upon the vineyards. The heavily laden Almond trees that bow and rustle in the gentle breeze after the sweet scented blossoms have given way to produced delicate flavoured nuts. The orange trees and other fruits now ready to give up there treasures. These all meld into the treasures that this region gives to us, from the bitter sweet almonds, the juicy oranges that just ooze goodness to the varied cheeses both fragrant through to pungent delights, not forgetting the utterly delightful quince jams and cheese. The sounds of goat bells softly clanking in the distance combining with the peels of remote churches to lay dusk to rest. Then the wines, oh the wines, the range and diversity from green and vibrant to softly perfumed whites, the soft unctuous reds through to heady powerful Portuguese conquerors. The Nu falls into the soft unctuous range but with promise of further treats. It is said that patience is a virtue, and it has proved the case with this wine, I have waited for at least a month to sample this wine, deliberately hidden away from temptation, but no longer could I resist. So once the cork was removed a quick sniff was in order, steeped fruit notes wafted from the bottle promising untold delights were awaiting. The gentle but strangely arousing glug as the wine poured into the decanter, giving up seductive port like notes. Once settled for a good few hours the first glass was poured and quickly consumed, yes it’s my kind of wine, fruit that satisfies the need, no heavy tannins that dry the mouth. Just a wine that suits me down to the ground. So fellow imbibers please give the NU a try, and if you never have had the pleasure of visiting the area, I hope my ramblings might give you an insight into this delightful region and what it can produce. If this review has not stirred you, I apologise, but I still raise a glass to you and hope that maybe a slight smile might crease your lips.

Simpsons of Sainte Rose Low Yield Roussanne 2012

£13.49

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After a hard hot day at work I came home to find the cooking duties down to me yet again (love it really), so straight to the fridge for a cool Hoegaarden 500 ml, thank you Belgium beer makers, and a glass from freezer. Top tip rinse glass in water but do not dry and place sliced lemon in glass and then freeze. Back to the cooking decided to do a beef Ragu as had some beef leftover from Sunday and a packet of nice pasta in the fridge, not got the time or figure of Nigella Lawson (possibly) to make my own. Several cartons of Passata, herbs from the garden, homemade beef stock, Spices and veg and some nice Balsamic vinegar all chucked in the pot and left to cook slow and low. Second beer duly finished then a decision as to what to pair with this dish, first thought was to go red, but a little devil on my shoulder said, hold hard, white is the way to go and who wears the trousers round here anyway. As I did not have any on at the time,no argument from me. I thought I can’t have a hearty beef dish with a wishy washy white. “Ding” light bulb moment, no SB or overpowering fruit driven acidic white would do, but a big meaty white. And my choice was a no brainer. C&R low yield Roussanne. This wine has the body and flavours to ticks all the boxes to be a match made in heaven to go with a hearty dish, The stone fruit to compliment the sweet tomato herbs and light spices and balsamic. The deceptive alcohol and slight oily feel as it slips down the throat to make the beef come alive. Finally the creamy oak lifts the Parmesan shavings to another level, but still brings a zippy finish to cleanse the palate for the next forkful of food. I really do love this grape variety, Not an big SB fan so this is right up my alley or Ruelle if you live south of Jaywick, and after have some so so bottles in the past, to find this one from Charles and Ruth at a good price is a delight. Sub Ten pounds, Ok Just, but still a bargain Thank you both.

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Malcolm Drane

Archangel • Joined: 03 December 2008

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Malcolm's Top 3 Wines

Domaine O'Vineyards Mojoe 2017

Negreiros 2010

F. Stephen Millier Black Label Amador Zinfandel 2020

What Malcolm has been up to

J H Toso Angels Reserve Malbec 2018

Domaine O'Vineyards Mojoe 2017

Nu by Negreiros 2013

Simpsons of Sainte Rose Low Yield Roussanne 2012

Negreiros 2010

Brewery Hill Assemblage

Eddy Naim Mago 2018

Negreiros 2019

Benjamin Mei Cotes de Provence Rouge Infini 2016

Mischief and Mayhem Bourgogne Blanc 2021

F. Stephen Millier Black Label Amador Zinfandel 2020

Villion White Merlot 2022

Winemakers Malcolm is Archangel to

Cathy and Eric Giroud

Mario and Catarina Negreiros

Rupert Patrick

Jean-Marie Pidault

Stefan Lismond

Jose Hernandez Toso

Marco & Moreno Bruni

Nick Johnson

Marino Markezic

Bethan Higson

Alain Valles

Jean Esprit

Benito Otero

Sylvie Plomby

Kieron Atkinson

Guillaume Poitevin

Ludovic & Julien Meffre

Max de Pourtales

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