Fine Wine Club Archive
Explore your previous cases here in The Archive, with downloadable tasting notes from the winemakers behind your bottles. Plus catch up on live tastings.
Your case & tasting notes - November 2018
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Bellesa Perfecta Priorat 2016
Country
Spain
Region
Priorat
Grape
Grenache Blend
Market Price
£23.49
Angel Price
£12.99
Bellesa Perfecta Priorat 2016
By Franck MassardThere is an old adage which claims that only beautiful wine is made in beautiful places. UNESCO would appear to agree with this sentiment with regards to Priorat which is set to become part of this world heritage association. Originally founded in 1184 by Carthusians monks who went on to develop and rule the area, today it is home to spectacular scenery, making spectacular wines, just over an hour’s drive outside of Barcelona. As a wine region, it was previously home to 17,000 ha. of planted vines – equivalent to all of Chianti. Then, in the late 1800’s, the Phylloxera louse devastated the vineyards, reducing the plantings to only 1,000 ha. It wasn’t until circa 1985 that the region’s potential was identified for its optimum climate, geology and topography by a select group of winemakers who started planting again. Today the total area sits at around 2,000 ha and according to sommelier-turned-winemaker Franck Massard, that is just the right amount. Low yields and meticulous attention to detail on steep slopes limits the wide scale over production which seems to naturally infiltrate other areas when they get a taste for a bit fame. There are certain areas of Franck’s vineyard where the terrain is so irregular and extreme that the use of tractors or machinery in inconceivable. He ploughs by hand. It doesn’t get much more hands-on than that. Can you think of many other industries where the artisan is using tools from the last century to make a wine that ends up on Michelin star wine lists; or the equivalent…Naked Wines. :)
Soil types have been widely covered in these notes before but here, in Priorat, it is truly unique. A form of schist, it is known locally as llicorella and is famed for the linearity and focus it gives to the wines, namely Cariñena (Carignan) and Garnacha (Grenache). It brings low pH, which gives fresher wines, with higher acidity. Low pH also means more resilient to bacteria or rogue yeasts. It makes healthier wines with greater stability to the extent that Franck has significantly reduced his use of Sulphur Dioxide (SO2), which is widely, and positively, used as an anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial in winemaking. That can sometimes be considered risky business, but when you’ve got the kind of quality material he has, then it should be applauded. Similarly, in the vineyard, there is little to no disease pressure as the llicorella soil drains any heavy rainfall away swiftly, preventing the build of humidity that can cause rot or mould to form in the canopy, as seen in the nearby Penedes wine region. Practicing organic viticulture, without the use of herbicides or pesticides, Franck claims the vines pick up some of the characterises of the local flora; fennel and ‘Everlasting’ (curry plant). “It’s a no-brainer to be organic in this climate’ he states.
The grapes are hand harvested into small 15 kilo crates and brought to the winery where they’re held until they reach a temperature of 15C in a storage room, at which point the natural yeast in the environment can get the party known as fermentation started.
Franck prefers to stir up the lees (dead yeast cells) post fermentation to give greater texture and mouthfeel before moving it to 500 L barrels to mature. The size is larger than the 225L barrels used elsewhere as he is seeking less oak influence in terms of flavour, instead just utilizing the barrels for the stabilizing and colour fixing properties that they offer to the maturation of red wines.
The 60% of Grenache contributes a fleshiness to the wine, while the 40% Carignan gives more structure and vibrancy. Together they marry to give beautiful mulberry, dark fruits in their youth with a lifted fragrance. As the wine develops you can expect to see more dried herbs, savouriness and leathery notes. What fruit it losses in youthfulness – it later gains in a harmonious and fleshy texture as the wine ages. Franck is currently dipping into his stash of 2008’s, highlighting the age ability of these wines. I’m struggling to get through a month without accidentally monitoring its evolution by cracking open a bottle. But as I do so, I try and take the time to consider the beauty of it all; the landscape, the history, the labour and the diversity of flavour, which, as UNESCO will attest, is a rare thing of beauty.
Stepp Pinot Noir Sandstein Vineyard 2016
Country
Germany
Region
Pfalz
Grape
Pinot noir
Market Price
£24.99
Angel Price
£16.99
Stepp Pinot Noir Sandstein Vineyard 2016
By Gerd SteppWhat if I told you that Germany is the third largest producer of Pinot Noir in the world, with more vines than New Zealand and Australia combined? And what if I told you that it is, by and large, very, very good quality; ‘probably’ better than most of the over-priced Burgundy which tends to rest on the laurels of its appellation or brand. In a sense, being an underdog is no bad thing for a wine region. It drives the winemaker to prove its worth, going over and above what is expected to produce something that is worthy of a place on the world stage. Gerd’s Sandstein Pinot is more than deserved of this accolade and should be considered a total triumph when you consider the quality and complexity achieved at this price. It is soft and silky in texture, with no greenness or stalkiness sometimes found in Burgundy; even at the highest of appellation levels.
The vines are grown in the Pfalz, a warm and generally dry region protected by a 600m mountain range called the Pfälzer wald, which incidentally are a continuation of the Vosges mountains in France. Pinot Noir has been growing in Germany almost as long as Burgundy, also planted by monks. Gerd sources these grapes from 30-40 years old vines, specifically on sandstone soil (Sandstein), which he has discovered gives less vigour to the vine, and the overall growth is subsequently less. The bunches are also a little loose, meaning less risk of botrytis (not welcomed in reds) in tight bunches. The soil also gives more minerality, weight and texture to the wine, which is very evident when you taste this beaute of a wine.
Gerd lets the berries ‘cold soak’ for ten days, a method which enables the extraction of aromas and colours at around 8 degrees Celsius in the absence of alcohol which, as a solvent, would extract unwanted tannins also. The fermentation starts naturally after 5-6 days and the temperature eventually rises to 28 C after 14 days, at which point he presses the grapes off skins and racks (moves) to barrel where they sit, and mellow, for 18 months.
What he achieves through all this process are flavours of Morello cherries and little bit of clove spice from the 2nd use French oak barrels.
Beyond these two characteristics, it’s more of a sensual experience. Although it’s light in body, there’s great depth and length to the wine with these flavours and sensations lingering on and on.
The wine is definitely ready to drink now and it will continue to evolve where it might show more truffle notes in 5 years and then be simply cushiony in texture after 8 years.
Difficult to limit the full ageing potential, also as its under screw cap which keeps the wine in a slightly more inert state (without air), but you might consider delving into your last bottle after 10 years, 2028.
This really is a star wine!
Carlos Rodriguez Aba Solleira Mencia 2017
Country
Spain
Region
Ribeira Sacra
Grape
Mencia
Market Price
£16.99
Angel Price
£16.99
Carlos Rodriguez Aba Solleira Mencia 2017
By Carlos Rodriguez‘Heroic viticulture’.
This is how the vineyards and grape growers of Ribera Sacra are defined by CERVIM (the local high mountain viticulture association). This is also where Carlos Rodriguez has devoted himself physically and mentally in his new venture outside of Rioja. Situated in North-West Spain, this almost forgotten wine region is made up of rocky, almost impossible, terrain for grape growing, with vineyard slopes rising up to 350 metres from river level. Soils vary between granite and schist. The former is low in nutrients and water retention, limiting the yield of grapes, resulting in fine and elegant red fruits and moderate tannins. The latter has more water-retaining clay, which enables more nutrients and minerals to transfer into the vine and gives deeper, darker fruit flavours. It also produces a more vigorous canopy that requires individual management year-on-year. It’s a hands-on affair here and the quality of this wine is primarily down to the selfless commitment and labour that Carlos invests in the vineyard to produce an unctuously smooth red wine like this. He uses no systemic herbicides or pesticides, leaving the health of the vine down to his own judicious intervention. Think of him as a homeopath rather than a prescription scribbling doctor; addressing the condition of each vine on a case by case basis. He must spend hours upon end pruning the vine to ensure the right balance in the growth and distribution of grapes; further hours ensuring the canopy is open enough to allow air through the vine in this region of high humidity where disease is always around the corner; and countless days determining which weeds around each individual vine are good enough to stay for the well-being of the plant.
Is it really worth all that effort?
Hell yeah!
The wine has more body and silkiness than any other Mencia (grape) I’ve tasted. It has silky, polished tannins, making it smooth, fulfilling and utterly pleasurable to consume. Flavours of redcurrants and blackcurrants, some figs and dates. Its savoury, slightly balsamic note makes it unashamedly Old World in style. Carlos describes it as follows: “In terms of wine benchmarks, Mencia grape variety in some way looks like Pinot noir (Mencia has deeper colour and slightly different aromatic identity and less dry tannins), some similitudes also with Gamay or Grenache for its freshness, its black pepper aroma hints remember Cabernet Franc…”. I agree on all fronts, especially Gamay, where the best examples from granitic soils of Chénas give power and class to a massively glugable, yet age-worthy wine. Carlos’ wine is ready to drink now but could age until 2027-2030, over which time the palate should appear slightly finer, silkier yet still maintain the power and intensity that only a region with such extreme, or indeed heroic viticulture, could produce.
Kruger Family Old Vines Chenin Blanc 2018
Country
South Africa
Region
Wellington. Western Cape
Grape
Chenin blanc
Market Price
£19.99
Angel Price
£10.99
Kruger Family Old Vines Chenin Blanc 2018
By Johan KrugerIt is widely known and accepted than Chenin Blanc thrives in South Africa, making a name for itself in a climate which can be hot and frequently challenged by drought. This is in stark contrast to its spiritual home in the Loire valley in appellations such as Savennieres or Vovray, where the risk of frost and heavy rains are closer to the fore of the mind of the vigneron.
And while the success of South African Chenin shows no sign of abating anytime soon, it is the preservation and conservation of the older vines that require the spotlight at this time in its viticultural history.
At 25 years of age, the yield of the vine reduces, which provides less return for the grapegrowers who are selling their crop based on weight into the cooperatives. As a result, many vines are being ripped out in favour of citrus trees which offer a more secure income. This economic dilemma is understandable and justified but what is perhaps less understood and accepted from a quality perspective is the fact that vines really start coming into their stride from 25 years of age onwards. South Africa’s Old Vine Project, from which Johan’s wines were the first to obtain official certification, define ‘Old’ as 35 years of age. It is at this point that the roots have reached a depth of, say, 2 metres, where they start to pick up on some real quality minerals and nutrients in the soil.
While lots of the New Wave of South African winemakers were scrabbling over vineyards in the recently trendy Swartland region, Johan went further afield to the lesser appreciated Wellington region where he believes he has struck gold. Situated 400 metres up the Voorgroenberg mountain, looking across the valley at the Paadeberg mountain where many a famous South African wine hails from, the old vines which Johan has rescued benefit from a higher altitude providing a cooler and longer growing season, resulting in greater development of flavour profiles in the grapes. Further to this, in this 2018 vintage, South Africa was witnessing its third consecutive drought, ensuing a 20% reduction in crop. While this is by no means good news for an industry that struggles to make a profit, it does mean that the wines produced in 2018 are positively more concentrated and intense. (*The same goodness from the soil not being spread as thinly across more bunches).
The grapes were (carefully) hand harvested and transported to the winery where they were whole bunch pressed. This technique results in more grape solids to aid the fermentation as there is natural nutrition in the pulp – meaning a healthier, more consistent fermentation. It also increases the palate weight, accentuating the richness which the old vines can bring.
The juice is racked (moved) partially into old barrels and partially into concrete eggs.
Yep, concrete blinkin’ eggs.
These have rapidly almost become the norm as fermentation or maturation vessels. As the general form of an egg has no corners, it allows the convection currents, created by the heat of fermentation, to move the wine and its lees (fallen, dead yeast cells) around in a continuous vortex. This gives a wine with greater mouthfeel/texture and complex flavours from lees contact.
The wines tastes of white almonds, some guave, yellow fruit; quince. There’s a little bit of nutmeg from the old barrels but in general the fruit profile of this wine is relatively subtle.
In fact it is less about taste here, but more about sensation. The qualities of this wine lie in the vibrancy and subtle electricity that races across the palate.
It’s an energy that is really only found in either older vines, or vines grown on healthy, microbiologically active soils, like those of biodynamic vineyards.
Of course, this isn’t necessarily scientifically proven, it’s simply speaking from personal experience.
However you perceive this wine to taste, or feel, sit back and consider the fact that this wine has been 35 years in the making….
*Drink now to 2026-2028
Stepp Riesling Kalkstein Vineyard 2017
Country
Germany
Region
Pfalz
Grape
Riesling
Market Price
£26.99
Angel Price
£15.99
Stepp Riesling Kalkstein Vineyard 2017
By Gerd SteppAh Riesling! Often overlooked in the mainstream of wine purchases for perhaps sexier white grapes like Sauvignon Blanc and (some) Chardonnays. The thing with Riesling is that you really get the best from it if you’re in the right state of mind to fully appreciate how great it is. Like the most faithful of hounds, if you give yourself in to Riesling, it will give back to you in bounds and bounds of energy, intrigue and joy.
To recap on this variety, which is considered the greatest of all grapes by most wine critics…
Yes, it was used to make sickly sweet wines such as Blue Nun in the past, but it’s important to move on and see it for all its greatness and glory. It produces bone dry, crisp white wines, right through the ripeness and sweetness spectrum to create some of the greatest ‘dessert’ wines in the world. It benefits from a low pH, which indirectly means it has high acidity. That doesn’t necessarily mean its ‘acidic’. I rather think of it as an underlying current of energy that keeps these wines fresh, lively, vibrant and alive for a lot longer than any of its (sexier) counterparts. Situated in the Pfalz region of Germany, these vines are grown on dense limestone (Kalkstein) soil, which gives a broader and creamier palate, with greater opulence, than vines grown on, say, sandstone, which give more mineral and lighter wines. This opulent mouthfeel is also a result of leaving the wine on its fine lees (dead yeast cells) for 6 months in stainless steel tanks - no oak here! The amino acids in the lees break down and release mannoproteins, which gives a kind of umami character to the wine.
Isn’t wine amazing?!
On tasting this wine you’ll see in its first two years it shows more tropical, fruit esters which remain from the fermentation. Yellow peach and floral notes. Gerd points out that these will fade and you’ll start to see more lime juice and terpenic notes; these can be described as kerosene notes – trust me, it’s delicious. He cross references the positive attributes found in aged Chablis, a sort of mealiness, which is more about texture and sensation than a long list of fruit flavours.
And so to the age ability of the wine… it can easily run for 20 years and will taste considerably better and more complex then.
If you’re the sort of person who sets themselves New Year resolutions, I would implore you to put ‘Drink more Riesling’ at the top of next year’s list.
Martin Berdugo MB Especial 2015
Country
Spain
Region
Ribera del Duero
Grape
Tempranillo
Market Price
£36.99
Angel Price
£19.99
Martin Berdugo MB Especial 2015
By Antonio Díez MartínIt’s mind-boggling how a region like Ribera del Duero in Spain still manages to sit somewhat below the radar in terms of wine quality and fame. Despite sharing the same grape variety, Tempranillo, with its more famed neighbour Rioja, it remains far from a household name. This is partly down to the price per bottle for the respective regions, but there is also a lot to be said for the differing wine styles, and this largely comes down to geographical influence.
Rioja sits at a higher altitude, slightly further north, and as a result benefits from greater maritime influences of cool winds which moderate the growing season. This gives Tempranillo wines with more fresh, red fruit characteristics which, when aged in barrel for 2-5 years, produce soft, supple and smooth red wines. Nice!
Ribera del Duero however, is more inland, less altitude, and has a continental climate, meaning very hot summers (40C) and dangerously cold winters (-15C). The Tempranillo grape, known locally as Tinto del Pais, protects itself from the extreme heat by producing a thicker skin, (like suntan lotion protects human skin) giving a greater skin/juice ratio, often resulting in darker, more concentrated and tannic red wines.
Indeed, it may make more sense to compare these wines to the Left Bank of Bordeaux than Rioja. They can be slightly challenging in their youth, but evolve in to world-class wines of elegance with age. The good ones that is. Plenty of ‘lesser’ Bordeaux wines knocking around.
Vega Sicilia, widely considered the greatest wine estate in Spain, is proudly based in Ribera del Duero. So too is Antonio Diez Martin’s winery Martin Berdugo who have produced this stunner of a wine, MB Especial.
2015 was an excellent vintage in the region, but the vineyards were hit by hail on 28th April, just as the vines had started budding. This resulted in a reduced yield (-30%) but great quality.
The vines selected for this top cuvée are situated between the bodega and the river at the end of the property and sit on very stoney ground of rounded pebbles. The benefit of this terrain is the vines have to work very hard, and dig very deep, wriggling left and right to find the water table and in doing so have picked up valuable minerals and nutrients which are transported back to the bunches.
In addition, these stones absorb the heat from the day and radiate it back into the vines when it gets cold at night ensuring constant ripening, giving more full bodied wines. Simalr to Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
The grapes were hand-harvested into small boxes and carried to the winery where they went into stainless steel tanks at 20 – 22 C, to focus on fruit retention, which can be lost at higher temperatures. As mentioned, grapes from this region have a tendency to produce tannic red wines so Antonio avoids breaking the skins which further extracts tannins, at all costs. He has installed a moveable crane to unload the juice from the bottom of the tank which is then raised above the open top and the contents poured over the cap of skins on the surface by gravity which is considerable more gentle than by pumping. This soaking of the cap gives greater colour and manages the fruit flavour without roughly breaking the skins by another method called ‘punch down’ or ‘pigeage’. In fact, his intervention is so minimal that there is absolutely no pressing of the skins at all. You are getting all the coveted, tasty, free-run juice. Angel funding paid for the 100% new French oak (Cadus tonnellerie/cooper) in which the wine laid resting for 18 months.
In terms of when to drink this wine…. If you like your wine dense, concentrated, powerful, structured with evident lashings of new oak, then get stuck in now.
If you rather a smoother, more subtle, rounded palate with tobacco leaf characteristics, then the wine would benefit from 5-8 further years of ageing.
Or you could try both; one now, one then and one in between to see how it’s getting on!
Whenever you do chose to approach it, you should do so in the knowledge that the model of funding winemakers by paying for grapes and barrels in advance has produced this impeccable wine, worthy of world-class fame.
