Ever found yourself eyeing a glass of chilled white wine, then hesitating, thinking to yourself, “It’s not Chardonnay, is it?”
You’re certainly not alone – and we’re not here to judge.
Chardonnay is a curious case, because thousands of wine lovers across the world are proud members of the “ABC Club” (which stands for Anything But Chardonnay)...
…but for many of our winemakers (and plenty of wine lovers), Chardonnay is the undisputed star of the cellar. It’s so versatile that it can be shaped in wildly different styles, depending on where it’s grown and whose hands it’s in.
Because here’s the thing: Chardonnay isn’t just one style – it can be made in nearly endless flavor profiles. And as the old saying goes, “if you’ve tried one Chardonnay, you’ve tried… just one Chardonnay.”
So the question is – are you a tried-and-true member of the ABC club, or have you just been drinking the wrong bottle?
What makes Chardonnay taste like… that?
Chardonnay grapes are full of endless possibilities, made in all sorts of styles across the globe, from ripe and complex to crisp and fresh, and everything in between.
It’s native to Burgundy, France, where it’s at the heart of some of the most elegant white wines on the planet. And because it’s a hardy, forgiving grape, it’s been planted in nearly every corner of the winemaking world. The real secret is that how it tastes in your glass comes down to two major things: where it grew and how it was handled.
The Climate Effect
Cool Climates: In cooler regions, Chardonnay retains bright, sharp acidity and delivers fresher flavors. Think apples, pears, lemon zest, and crisp minerality.
Warm Climates: More heat and more sunshine produce riper, richer fruit flavors. You’ll find stone fruits like peach and nectarine, all the way to full-on tropical fruits like mango and pineapple.
Winemakers will obsess for hours over individual slopes and how a specific hillside catches the morning sun or evades a chilly frost. That hyper-local obsession is where the famous Cru labelling started in Burgundy. It doesn’t just denote big, fancy estates – it categorizes specific vineyard sites that create legendary liquid magic.
The Winemaker’s Wizardry
As soon as the grapes enter the winery, it’s time for the winemaker’s choices to shine, typically using three main techniques.
To oak or not to oak: Fermenting the juice in stainless steel tanks keeps the wine crisp and fresh, with pure, fruity characteristics. By introducing oak barrels, the wine develops added complexities. And, the bigger (and older) the barrel, the more subtle the effect. New oak barrels give loud, punchy notes of vanilla, butterscotch and sweet baking spice, while older, seasoned barrels simply add textural roundness and nicely-aged fruit character without dominant woody flavors.
Malolactic Fermentation (MLF): Don't let the science-y name scare you off. MLF is a natural biological process where the sharp malic acid in the juice (think: biting into a fresh green apple) is converted by friendly bacteria into the smooth, creamy lactic acid found in dairy. Yes, it sounds odd, but don’t worry, this isn’t about turning your wine into a milkshake. It’s just what gives wines buttery flavors and luxurious texture.
Lees Stirring: The 'lees' are the spent yeast cells left behind after a wine ferments. Instead of filtering them out immediately, many winemakers utilize bâtonnage (a fancy word for giving it a good stir), giving the wine a glorious textural weight and infusing it with savory notes of brioche, baked bread, and biscuits.
The Many Flavors of Chardonnay
Crisp and clean
This side of Chardonnay is all about refreshing fruit flavors (think crisp apples and bright citrus) with a mouthwatering finish. There is no (or very little) oak in sight here – these wines rely on their cool climates and stainless steel to preserve the fresh fruit flavors.
It’s a style that’s been perfected for centuries, especially in classic northern Burgundy appellations like Chablis, but plenty of winemakers across the globe are giving the French a run for their money.
What to try on our shelves: Jorge’s Unoaked Chardonnay, Benjamin Darnault Pique Nique Blanc, Benjamin’s Premier Cru Chablis, Jérémy’s Bourgogne
Ripe and fruity
A step further into vibrant, juicy fruit flavors – but still without the butter or vanilla notes. These wines are typically grown in warmer, sun-drenched regions that develop riper fruit flavors, and the winemaker keeps the complexity under control.
What to try on our shelves: Lindsey’s Unoaked Chardonnay, Tom’s California Chardonnay, Scott Kelley Oregon Chardonnay
Rich and complex
It’s a fine line, balancing big oak and crisp fruit, but that’s where winemaker finesse comes in. The fruit in these wines is rich, topped off with delicate spice and toasty flavors. There are hints of lees aging for a smooth, round style that enhances food without overwhelming the dish.
What to try on our shelves: Ben’s South of France Chardonnay, Stephen’s Lodi Chardonnay, Derek’s Anderson Valley Chardonnay
Big, bold, and buttery
Unabashedly luxurious and plush, these Chardonnays are filled with oaky goodness. It’s a classic California style – and your very own winemaker Scott Peterson was one of the pioneers. Think lush, ripe fruit flavor and plenty of vanilla and spice from oak aging and barrel fermentation, like a lemon meringue pie in your glass. It’s not a style for everyone, but the ones who love it, LOVE it.
What to try on our shelves: Scott’s ROX Chardonnay, David Akiyoshi Reserve Chardonnay, Kyle’s Sonoma Valley Chardonnay, Matt’s Petaluma Gap Chardonnay
Bright and bubbly
And if all of that hasn’t convinced you, we have one other curveball to toss your way. Did you know that Chardonnay is one of the most-used grapes in sparkling wine, and one of the three historic grapes used to craft Champagne?
That’s right. If you’ve ever celebrated a wedding, toasted a major milestone, or simply rung in the New Year with a glass of bubbly, congratulations. You’ve almost certainly been drinking Chardonnay all along. It just put on a tuxedo and found a sneakier, sparklier way to worm its way into your heart.
What to try on our shelves: Wayne’s Sonoma Blanc de Blancs, JP’s Vintage Champagne, Françoise Crémant de Limoux, Rob’s Russian River Valley Blanc de Blancs
Now that you’re armed with all this Chardonnay savvy, go on and add a few to your basket. There’s more to explore outside of the ABC club.
